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  1. Follow the recommended carb sync method for your bike. These instructions assume that you know how to prepare and adjust your bike.

  2. The sensors have a 3mm port. A 1/8 inch ID tube works great. You will need a plastic reducing coupler to connect to a tube that fits your bike. Yamaha uses 5mm. A 3/16” ID tube works great. Honda uses a 6mm port. A 1/4” ID tube works great. Some makes and models vary. Make a set of tubes that are consistent. It doesn’t matter which size tube is longer but cut, build and hook-up everything the same.

  3. With your bike prepared for sync, hook up your tubes to the carbs and the sensors.

  4. With the bike NOT RUNNING connect the device to the dc power source you are using, or if it is already powered on, press the reset button.

  5. NOTE: new versions of the software do not use a calibration sequence. Wait for the calibration sequence to complete.

  6. It is normal for the calibration to set the sensor readout within a point or two of each other. If all sensors are reading the same that means someone did a really good job soldering it all together and everything is in ideal condition. For the rest of us, just note the relative settings when the bike is off. The Digital Carb Sync Shield is designed to be forgiving to build quality. New versions of the software do not use a calibration sequence. The software code can be adjusted if desired.


  8. Follow the bike’s owners manual to adjust the carbs.

  9. Get the readings as close to each other as you can. A few points difference is fine. The sensors are more accurate than needed.

  10. It is okay to open up the throttle but remember that if your vacuum advance is disconnected the bike may miss at higher RPMs.